Mode oe cutting the bodies of coats ist owe piece



UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

WILLIAM M. VISVVELL, OF PORTLAND, MAINE.

MODE OF CUTTING THE BODIES OF COAIS IN ONE PIECE.

Specification of Letters Patent No. 1,119', dated .April 10, 1839.

To all whom t may concern Be it known that I, WILLIAM M. I/VIS- wnLL, ofPortland, in the county of Cumberland and State of Maine, have inventeda new and Improved Mode of Cutting and Making Coats, whereby much laborand eX- pense is saved in cutting and making coats; and I do herebydeclare that the following specifications are a full and exactdescription thereof.

The nature of my improvement is to out and make the coat without anyback or side seams, or lapel seams, and is done in the following manner:After taking the breast measure and folding the cloth, as is done in theold method of cutting, I measure down from the top end of the cloth, atA, of the breast measure to B. Then I strike off horizontal or parallelwith the top end of cloth, l of the breast measure to N. Then I measuredown on the back to C, lg of the breast measure. Then, taking A as acenter, I sweep from C to N, which gives one half of the shape of theneck. Then I measure from C to D, which is of the breast measure. Then Istrike a horizontal line from D to Gr, il, of the breast measure and onesize, which makes the back scye point. Then I measure down from D to E,according to the shape of the man, whatever the length may be, to thelevel of the arm-pits, and strike the line E, F, according to the sizeof the man. From F to H is of the breast measure, which makes the frontscyepoint. This point I also call the pivot. From C, through G and I-I Idraw a straight line to J and of breast measure. This gives about anaverage shape or capacity of the breast of the coat, but may be longeror shorter, as the fancy may be for lapping the breasts. From H to I( infront is of the breast measure, and then from K to L 1s :l and 1f ofbreast measure, which makes the top of the shoulder seam in front. FromI-I to M is i of breast measure. From G to M is 1,- of breast measurelacking one size. From G to H is f2, of breast measure and one size. Thelines N, O and L, M should be equal in length, as they make the shoulderseam when brought together. From I-I to J is JH; and 3g of the breastmeasure. The line A, B, C, D, P, is the length of the back and is, inlength, according to the length of the man and also according to tasteand fashion. I call the point H, which is the front scye, the pivot.From H, I draw the lines H, P,- H, Q,-I-I, R,-H, S,-H, J, and H, T.These lines I also call the pivot measures. The length of each of theselines is no exact part of the breast measure, but is according to taste,fancy and fashion. The piece Q, R, V, is taken out and the lines Q, R,and V, It, are brought together to make a proper lit of the coat aroundthe waist and over the hips and is no exact proportion, but according tothe shape of the man. From l?, Q, to u, w, is the length and size of theback skirt. The body of the coat and back skirt are cut whole, having noseams, but the shoulder seam made by the lines N, O, and L, M, broughttogether. The front skirt is fitted on as is usual in making coats,after the old method of cutting, and is represented in the drawing bythe piece V, R, X, IV.

lVhat I claim as my own invention and improvement and wish distinctly tosecure by these specifications and drawings accompanying the same is Theimprovement or principle of cutting and making the body and back skirtof the coat whole, having no seam therein, but the seam upon theshoulder made by the union of the two equal lines L, M and N, O. To theother parts, the fitting of the collar, sleeves and front skirt, and anyother appendages I lay no claim.

This mode of cutting and making extends to straight coats, surtouts,round jack-coats and pea jack-coats.

In testimony that the foregoing specifications are a full, clear andexact description and explanation of my said impro-vement in cutting andmaking coats, surtouts, round jack-coats, and pea jack-coats I havehereunto set my hand and seal this sixteenth day of March, in the yearof our Lord one thousand eight hundred and thirty nine.

WILLIAM M. IVISIVELL.

In presence of- JONATHAN MORGAN, J. G. ToLronD.

